THE 10 GREAT DISTINCT TYPES OF PAINTINGS(HANDICRAFT) IN INDIA

Painting is the expression of ideas and emotions, with the creation of certain aesthetic qualities, in a two-dimensional visual language. Painting is the practice of applying paint, pigment, color or other medium to a solid surface. The medium is commonly applied to the base with a brush, but other implements, such as knives, sponges, and airbrushes, can be used. The support for paintings includes such surfaces as walls, paper, canvas, wood, glass, lacquer, pottery, leaf, copper and concrete, and the painting may incorporate multiple other materials, including sand, clay, paper, plaster, gold leaf, and even whole objects. An artist’s decision to use a particular medium, such as tempera, fresco, oil, acrylic, watercolour or other water-based paints, ink, gouache, encaustic, or casein, as well as the choice of a particular form, such as mural, easel, panel, miniature, manuscript illumination, scroll, screen or fan, panorama, or any of a variety of modern forms, is based on the sensuous qualities and the expressive possibilities and limitations of those options. In art, the term painting describes both the act and the result of the action. Indian painting has a very long tradition and history in Indian art, though because of the climatic conditions very few early examples survive.[1] The earliest Indian paintings were the rock paintings of prehistoric times, such as the petroglyphs found in places like Bhimbetka rock shelters. Miniature paintings and folk art paintings are an artisan’s expression in pictorial form and have long formed an integral part of India’s handicrafts products. India has a very rich culture and tradition and it portrays it through its amazing art and craft. Various painting styles are prevalent across various regions, each representing tradition, customs, and ideologies passed on from one generation to other generation. Here is the list of 10 distinct types of Indian paintings.

1.Madhubani Paintings

One of the most celebrated styles of folk paintings in India is, Madhubani art or Mithila art which originated in the Mithila region of Bihar as a form of wall art. This painting is done with a variety of tools, including fingers, twigs, brushes, nib-pens, and matchsticks and using natural dyes and pigments. There is ritual content for particular occasions, such as birth or marriage, and festivals, such as Holi, Surya Shasti, Kali Puja, Upanayana, and Durga Puja. Natural objects like the sun, the moon, and religious plants like tulsi are also widely painted. It originated from Madhubani district of the Mithila region of Bihar. Madhubani is also a major export center of these paintings. The paintings were traditionally done on freshly plastered mud walls and floors of huts, but now they are also done on cloth, handmade paper and canvas. Madhubani paintings mostly depict people and their association with nature and scenes and deities from the ancient epics. The colors used in Madhubani paintings are usually derived from plants and other natural sources. These colors are often bright and pigments like lampblack and ochre are used to create black and brown respectively. Some of the initial references to the Madhubani painting can be found in the Hindu epic Ramayana when King Janaka, Sita’s father, asks his painters to create Madhubani paintings for his daughter’s wedding. Madhubani paintings were initially practiced by different sects of people and hence the paintings were categorized into five different styles, such as Tantrik, Kohbar, Bharni, Godna, Katchni. But today, these five different styles have been merged by contemporary artists. The designs are characterised by eye-catching geometrical patterns, symbolic images, and scenes from mythology.

2.Warli Paintings

The 3000-year-old tradition of Warli paintings of the Thane and Nasik areas of Maharashtra are closely linked with nature and social rituals of the tribe. Warli paintings showcase daily activities of the local people of that community like farming, dancing, hunting, praying etc. Traditionally, women used twigs to draw lively designs with rice paste on mud walls of tribal houses to mark celebrations of harvests or weddings. Simple geometrical patterns in white against a red or yellow surface are used to depict everyday life scenes. Warli is not just an art form, but a way of life for the Warli (Varli) tribes from the mountains and coastal regions in and around the borders of Maharashtra and Gujarat. This art has an enigmatic appeal. Those from the states of Gujarat and Maharashtra surely have a sense of sentiment attached to the art form as they’ve seen it on the walls of rural schools and homes way before they became popular on modern lifestyle products. Today, the Warli art form is not only popular in metros like Bangalore, Chennai and Delhi, but internationally as well. Today, a variety of colours are being used to replicate these artistic motifs on fabrics, home décor or other artistic forms. From brightly coloured umbrellas to coffee mugs and tea cups, rustic wall clocks, accents for walls and stationery Warli is pretty much everywhere. It uses rudimentary style where circles, triangles and squares are used to depict human forms, animals and nature. Warli women used to paint these simple images on their home walls and this art has now travelled to our drawing room.

3.Kalighat Painting or Bengal Pat

The Kalighat painting style was developed around mid 19th century in the neighbourhood of Kali Temple in Calcutta. These drawings on paper were done by a group known as “patuas” hence the name Kalighata Pata. They depicted scenes of everyday life and mythological deities in a simple yet captivating manner and developed into the popular kalighat style of painting. Kalighat painters predominantly use earthy Indian colors like indigo, ochre, Indian red, grey, blue and white. As India’s unofficial cultural capital, has pioneered several movements and trends in literature, theater, and the visual arts over the past several centuries. Painted mostly on mill-made paper with flowing brushwork and bold dyes, Kalighat paintings are said to have originated in the vicinity of the iconic Kalighat Kali Temple in Kolkata. The art almost always depicted Hindu gods and mythological characters, or incidents, themes, and characters from everyday life. Legend has it that Sati slew herself after Lord Shiva was insulted by her father Daksha. Following this, Shiva wandered with her body on his shoulder threatening to destroy the universe. Vishnu, the preserver of Earth, intervened and shattered Sati’s body into 51 pieces which fell at different spots across the Indian subcontinent. These sites are known as Shakti Peethas. The toe of her right foot is said to have fallen at the site of the Kalighat Temple, associating it with Goddess Kali- the ferocious form of Sati.

4.Phad Painting

Phad paintings are created on hand-woven coarse cotton cloth, which is soaked overnight to thicken the threads. It is then stiffened with starch from rice or wheat flour, stretched, dried in the sun and rubbed with a moonstone to smoothen the surface and give it a sheen. The entire process of making a Phad painting is completely natural, with the use of natural fibres, and natural paints sourced from stones, flowers, plants and herbs. The paints are handmade by the artists, and mixed with gum and water before applying to cloth. Typical colors seen in a Phad painting are yellow, orange, green, brown, red, blue and black. Phad painting or Phad is a style religious scroll painting and folk painting, practiced in Rajasthan state of India. The narratives of the folk deities of Rajasthan, mostly of Pabuji and Devnarayan are depicted on the phads. The Bhopas, the priest-singers traditionally carry the painted phads along with them and use these as the mobile temples of the folk deities. The phads of Pabuji are normally about 15 feet in length, while the phads of Devnarayan are normally about 30 feet long. Traditionally the phads are painted with vegetable colors. Phad finds its origins in Shahpura, near Bhilwara, Rajasthan. Phad is a type of scroll painting that narrates elaborate religious stories of local deities and gods. The Phad painting would be unrolled, or unfolded after sunset, and the performance in front of village members, would last into the night. This is perhaps why the paintings are called ‘Phad’, which means ‘fold’ in the local dialect.

5.Kalamkari Painting

This 3000-year-old organic art of hand and block printing was traditionally used for making narrative scrolls and panels. Kalamkari derives its name from kalam or pen and is a in Kalahasti and Machilipatnam. The stylised animal forms, floral motifs and mehrab designs predominant in Kalamkari paintings have also found a place in Kalamkari textiles. Kalamkari art primarily involves earthy colours like indigo, green, rust, black and mustard. The unique feature of the Kalamkari art is that it makes use of only natural colours or vegetable dyes. Kalamkari art was the household occupation of several rural women and craftsmen in the ancient times and continues to be passed down from one generation to the next. Andhra Pradesh is still the main hub of kalamkari printing in the country. Craftsmen engaged in kalamkari art had to later modernize some of the ancient, Hindu-mythology inspired kalamkari themes because there was an increasing demand for these prints in the international market. Kalamkari art is available in two distinct styles: Machilipatnam and Srikalahasti: 1. Kalahasti Kalamkari, 2.Machilipatnam Kalamkari . An increasing number of people all across the globe are now discouraging the use of harmful chemicals in production and manufacturing. In such a scenario, kalamkari emerges as the perfect craft because it avoids the use of artificial chemicals and still produces beautifully colored fabrics.

6.Miniature Painting

It developed into a distinct style with a combination of Islamic, Persian and Indian elements. The painting is done using natural stone colors on a paper-based “wasli”. Mineral colors, precious stones, conch shells, gold and silver are used in the miniatures. Fine brushwork, intricacy, detailing and stylization are the unique attributes of miniature painting. Across India, the miniature painting style has developed into distinct schools of miniature paintings like Kangra, Rajasthan, Malwa, Pahadi, Mughal, Deccan etc. to name a few. The Miniature painting style came to India with the Mughals in the 16th century and is identified as an important milestone in the history of Indian art. Miniature art is an intense labour of love illustrated on a range of materials like palm leaves, paper, wood, marble, ivory panels and cloth. Organic and natural minerals like stone dust, real gold and silver dust are used to create the exquisite colors. Even the paper used is special; polished with stone to render a smooth non porous surface. Miniature painting, also called limning, small, finely wrought portrait executed on vellum, prepared card, copper, or ivory. The name is derived from the minium, or red lead, used by the medieval illuminators. Defined by delicate brushwork, a mélange of colors, and graceful forms, miniature paintings are so delicate, that even today, with so much modernization, squirrel hair is used to create the brushes used in this art form. Each painting abounds with fine photographic details, capturing even the hair on a character.

7.Gond Painting

Gond art is a form of painting from folk and tribal art that is practiced by one of the largest tribes in India – Gond – who are predominantly from Madhya Pradesh, but also can be found in of Andhra Pradesh, Maharashtra, Chhatisgarh, and Odisha. These vibrant paintings created with a series of intricately arranged dots and dashes were developed by the Gondi tribe of central India. The tribals recreate mythological tales and oral histories to traditional songs, natural surroundings, important events and rituals in with great intricacy, rich detailing, and bright colors. Traditionally, colors were derived from natural resources like cow dung, plant sap, charcoal, coloured soil, mud, flowers, leaves etc. Gond artists now use commercial water-based colors to paint on paper and canvas. The Gond, who are predominantly from Madhya Pradesh, but also can be found in Andhra Pradesh, Maharashtra, Chhatisgarh, and Odisha. Gond paintings can be described as ‘on line work’. Art is created by lines in such a way to convey a sense of movement to still images. Dots and dashes are added to impart a greater sense of movement and increase the amount of detail. Another very striking facet of Gond paintings is the use of bright vivid colors such as white, red, blue and yellow. A certain sense of balance and symmetry can be observed in the pattern used, such as spiral forms along with trees, leaves, animals and human figures. Gond comes from the Dravidian expression, Kond which means ‘the green mountain’.

8.Kerala Mural

The paintings present a highly stylised version of the gods, with wide open eyes, elongated lips and exaggerated eyebrows, which can be compared to forms depicted in the classical theatre of Kerala. Also, the figures along with animals and vegetation are executed in a technically unmatched manner. The color palette consists of just five colors (Panchavarna) or red, yellow, green, black and white and the colors are derived from natural sources. Ochre-red, yellow- ochre, bluish- green, white and pure colors are predominantly used in Kerala mural painting. There are over the deities who are held in high esteem by the Oriyas and who inspire religion, life and activity of the people also carry with them a tradition of art and painting which is as old as the deities themselves. Kerala mural paintings are the frescos depicting Hindu mythology in Kerala. The murals of Thirunadhikkara Cave Temple and Tiruvanchikulam are considered the oldest relics of Kerala’s own style of murals. The masterpieces of Kerala mural art include: the Shiva Temple in Ettumanoor, the Ramayana murals of Mattancherry Palace and Vadakkumnatha kshetram. Other fine mural paintings are depicted in temples at Trikodithanam, Vaikom Temple, Pundarikapuram, Udayanapuram, Triprangode, Guruvayoor, Kumaranalloor, Aymanam, the Vadakkunathan temple in Trichur, the Thodeekkalam temple in Kannur and the Sri Padmanabhaswamy temple at Thiruvananthapuram.

9.Patachitra

Colors used in the Paintings are natural and paintings are made fully old traditional way by Chitrakaras that is Odiya Painter. Pattachitra style of painting is one of the oldest and most popular art forms of Odisha. Patachitra is the cloth scroll painting tradition from Odisha, dedicated to mythological and religious themes. Bold, strong outlines, vibrant colors like white, red yellow and black with decorative borders are some of the characteristics of patachitra painting style,that is admired across the world. Patachitras are a component of an ancient Bengali narrative art, originally serving as a visual device during the performance of a song. The paintings of Odisha can be divided into three categories from the point of view of medium, i.e. paintings on cloth or ‘Patta Chitra’, paintings on walls or ‘Bhitti Chitra’ and palm leaf engravings or “Tala Patra Chitra’ or “Pothi, Chitra’. The painting the ‘pattachitra’ resemble the old murals of Odisha especially religious centres of Puri, Konark and Bhubaneshwar region. The colors are rich and vibrant, the motifs and designs very creative, the themes portrayed being quite simple, the narrative mostly from religious texts, the epics. – The Patachitra painting art is believed to be more than a thousand years old.

10.Picchwai

A stretched hand spun cloth and handmade paper is used as base medium. Natural stones are hand crushed and mixed with natural binder to create natural colors. Imagineers use brushes made of natural hair sources with wooden handles. In all, the entire process followed in creating these illustrative art form at Imagineers Studio is completely environment friendly creating minimum carbon footprint in line with original tradition. The art of Picchwai originated as wall hangings behind the main deity in Krishna temples in Nathdwara. They narrate stories related to Lord Krishna. Gradually with commercialisation secular themes are also incorporated in the Picchwai style of painting. Gopashtami Pichwai is a painting of Krishna playing his flute with cows. They are large paintings on cotton cloth painted with natural colours. These paintings are usually hung on the wall behind the idol of Lord Krishna. They illustrate some of this his leelas. Pichchwais are large paintings on cloth which were typically hung in the shrine on the wall behind the main idol. Picchwai is a sanskrit word, Pich in sanskrit means ‘back’ and Wai means ‘hanging’. Pichwai painting style is an Indian traditional art form which originated hundreds of years ago in the backdrop of Shrinath Ji temple situated in Nathdwara town of Rajasthan. Persons from rural area of India work on a single peace of Picchwai fine arts for weeks.

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THE 10 GREAT HANDICRAFTS OF INDIA THAT WE MUST BUY

A skilled activity in which something is made in a traditional way with the hands rather than being produced by machines in a factory. Tourists visiting India are often enamoured of its superb handicrafts, as much as its people. India has been known for its customs. When it comes to art and culture, India is among the most culturally rich countries in the world. Handicraft represents Indian’s culture and tradition. The feeling of home is hidden in the small things and the small stories that every item carries with it. The same is the reason behind buying handicrafts. Every piece of craft has a story, a story of the passion of the craftsmen who created it or his inspiration to make it. That’s why craft pieces make the perfect fit for any house. India is one of the leading producers and suppliers of handicraft products in the world. India has been a large producer and supplier of handicraft products for a long time. In Asian countries, handicrafts are as highly wanted as mechanized products in quality and volume and are a major source of their foreign earnings via exports. The artisanal industry is an important source of income for rural communities that employ more than six million artisans, including large numbers of women and people belonging to the weakest sectors of society. The sector is highly creative and produces a large variety of crafts products that are highly consumed and fond of. In India, the creative importance of these craft products is off the roof making sure that it fits in perfectly with the urbanized decor and connects the urban dwellers with their roots. The days of Indus Valley Civilization, artisans and craftsmen have been respected for their excellence in various kinds of handicrafts. That tradition continued well into medieval and colonial times, and flourishes even to this day. List of 10 Handicrafts of India That We must buy.

1) Pashmina shawl

Pashmina is considered the finest craftsmanship in the world which transforms the exceptionally warm and delicate Cashmere threads to opulent accessories. The fleece of Changthangi Goat is known as Pashm. This goat is exotic and is only found there, 15000 feet above sea level in Ladakh – Jammu and Kashmir, making the art of Pashmina even rarer and revered all over the world. This art was favoured with royal patronage. Kings, queens, royal families and nobles all over the world knew Pashmina. In fact, they owned a large number of shawls and scarves. It was in the 16th century when the birthplace of Pashmina – Kashmir – was under Mughal rule, that Pashmina was discovered. Pashmina may refer either to the material or to the variant of the Kashmir shawl that is made from it. Both generic cashmere and pashmina come from the same goat, but generic cashmere ranges from 12 to 21 microns in diameter, whereas pashmina refers only to those fibres that range from 12 to 16 microns. Besides employing literate as well as illiterate persons in both rural and urban areas, it acts as a subsidiary source of income for farmers who remain unemployed during the off-season. The most important aspect is that it should be hand spun and hand woven only. All steps, from combing and spinning, to weaving and finishing, are done entirely by hand by dedicated craftsmen and women. The main production center for Pashmina fabrics is the old Srinagar district. To produce a single Pashmina shawl it takes approximately 180 hours.

girl in white crew neck shirt lying on red and brown floral textile
Photo by cottonbro on Pexels.com

2) Woodwork

Woodworking is the skill of making items from wood, and includes cabinet making, wood carving, joinery, carpentry, and woodturning. In Rajasthan,wooden figures of Ghangore, a form of Parvathi is worshipped. Tamilnadu has a well developed tradition of woodcarving used for decorating houses and temples. The Tanjore dolls made of wood form a part of the rituals followed here and they are also used for educating small children. The Tirupathi red dolls are meant for sales for the pilgrims. Kondapalli is famous for its toys. Manipuris an important center for Tarkashi, metal thread work, done in furniture. Sankheda in Gujaratis an important center for lathe- worked lacquered furniture. The Punjab regions are famous for their exquisite wooden furniture. Kashmir is famous for its artifacts made of walnut. Chhattisgarh craftsmen specialize in wooden crafts such as doors, window frames, and sculptures. Jharkhand is famous for its wooden toys that are always in pairs. Goa wood carvings are an aesthetic mix of Portuguese and Indian cultures, and the designs are primarily floral, animal and human figures. It is mainly made of rosewood and sandalwood engraved with designs of flowers, vines, birds, and animals. Magnificent female figures are carved from Kumbli wood in Kerala. Karnataka is specialized in sandalwood carving. Rajasthanmaintains a rich tradition of stonecarving even in the common domesticbuildings.

3) Ceramic

Ceramic is considered the most sensual form of all the arts. The tradition of handmade pottery has been prevalent in India since the time of the Harappan civilization. Pottery in the Indian subcontinent has an ancient history and is one of the most tangible and iconic elements of Indian art. This article covers pottery vessels, mainly from the ancient Indian cultures known from archaeology. There has also been much figurative sculpture and decorative tilework in ceramics in the subcontinent, with the production of terracotta figurines being widespread in different regions and periods. In Bengal in particular, a lack of stone produced an extensive tradition of architectural sculpture for temples and mosques in terracotta and carved brick. In Rajasthan, Bikaner is famous for its painted pottery, Pokhran for its geometric patterned pottery, and Alwar for its Kagzi pottery. Jaipur blue pottery is also very famous. Jaipur blue pottery is also very famous.

4) Leather

India is famous worldwide for its leather products. Leather is a prominent industry in India. The main sectors from which its demand is derived are fashion, footwear, furniture, interiors and automotive. While the Indian leather totals upto 13 percent of the world’s total production of skins, around 10 percent of world’s footwear production also comes from India. India’s leather industry is bestowed with skilled manpower, innovative technology, increasing industry compliance to international environmental standards and the support of allied industries. India is the second largest exporter of leather garments and third largest exporter of saddlery and harness in the world. In India, the leather is prepared from the raw-hide skin of different animals like buffalo, goat, cow and sheep. Majorly, buffalo skin and goat skin are used to make leather products that are exported to the other countries. In the past, leather was not only used in the manufacture of clothing and footwear, but also in the manufacture of caps, bags, saddles, shields, etc. Madhya Pradesh is also known for its leather goods such as shoes, bags and clothing. Maharashtra is also famous for its Kolhapuri cocoons. The major production centers for leather and leather products in India are located in the States of Tamil Nadu, West Bengal, Uttar Pradesh, Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Haryana, Delhi, Rajastan, Kerala.

5) Jute

India is the world’s biggest producer of jute, followed by Bangladesh. Jute is primarily grown in West Bengal, Odisha, Assam, Meghalaya, Tripura and Andhra Pradesh. Jute is the second most abundant natural fibre in the world. It has high tensile strength, acoustic and thermal insulation, breathability, low extensibility, ease of blending with both synthetic and natural fibres, and antistatic properties. Jute production is a labour intensive industry. It employs about two lakh workers in the West Bengal alone and 4 lakh workers across the country. Jute can be used: for insulation (replacing glass wool), geotextiles, activated carbon powder, wall coverings, flooring, garments, rugs, ropes, gunny bags, handicrafts, curtains, carpet backings, paper, sandals, carry bags, and furniture. The wide variety of jute crafts includes bags, office stationery, bracelets and other jewelry, footwear, tapestries and many more. The production process in the Jute Industry goes through a variety of activities, which include cultivation of raw jute, processing of jute fibres, spinning, weaving, bleaching, dyeing, finishing and marketing of both, the raw jute and its finished products.

6) Shell

From Conches, tortoise shell and seashell shells crafts are made in India. You can find three types of shells made from shell crafts in India. Different types of products such as bracelets, forks, decorative bowls, medallions, curtains, chandeliers, mirror frames, tablecloths, decorating pots, lockets, lanterns, etc. are products of shell crafts. In specific, shell handicraft locations on the sea such as the Gulf of Mannar, Odisha, Goa etc. are present here and at lower rates in excess. You can also buy shell jewellery and bracelets in West Bengal. It is basically craft making which involves a lot of creativity which will enhance the look of what we do with the shells. Seashell is a gift of nature to man and they are found in a variety of shapes, size and color. It is simply a folk art which is carried out by amateurs, however in some cases, it is also used for business making and the means to livelihood.

7) Brass Crafts

Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc. A diverse range of brass can be created simply by varying the proportion of these two ingredients. Brass has a yellow color that is somewhat similar to gold. It is also fairly resistant to tarnishing. The discovery of metals made the lives of man easy as the metal products proved to be such a great help for them that they successfully completed some impossible tasks. India is well known for its beautiful brass craft, which covers a wide range of products, ranging from decoration items to utility ware. India, in fact, is one of the largest brass makers in the world. The art of brass craft has been practiced for almost 5 million years. Brass is known for its durability, and this feature adds to its advantage when used as a craft. Various items include the Lord Ganesha figure in different postures, vases, tables, perforated lamps, ornament boxes, wine glasses and many more are widely used in many Indian houses. These craftsmen dealing with brass crafts are known distinctly as “Kansaris”. Advantage of Brass has several characteristic properties that make it the ideal choice for art and craft. Brass is It is a long lasting metal , requires little maintenance and it is similar to gold, gives it a very attractive appearance.

8) Bamboo Crafts

As we all know that excessive use of wooden products can harm our eco system. There is one beautiful and strong supplement of wood which is cane and bamboo. These two are ecofriendly, light weighted, and strong. These have more life than wood, low maintenance, and easily portable. They have unique and elegant styles which are liked by everyone. These two are used to make different items for daily use and for decoration. Although India is famous for its handiwork but the state of west Bengal is pretty much good in their bamboo and cane craft. artisans of northeast India mostly make trays, unique furniture, decorative lamps, fans, hand bags, lamp shades and jewellery. The various other items made from bamboo are baskets, dolls, toys, furniture, mats, tapestries, crossbows, bamboo houses, hats, musical instruments, stools, kurup and khasi umbrella, bridges, smoking pipes, trays, knives, barrels and many more.

9) Phulkari

Sitting on the charpoys (beds woven with jute strings) pulled into the protective shade of a tree, or ensconced against a wall, women in villages and small towns all over Punjab are often busy creating spectacular flower-embroidery on dupattas, shawls or other garments. The word phulkari literally means flowering. It is a form of craft in which embroidery is done in a simple and sparse design over shawls and dupattas. In some cases where the design is worked over very closely, covering the material entirely, it is called bagh. The embroidery of phulkari and bagh is done in long and short darn stitch, which is created into innumerable designs and patterns. It is the skilful manipulation of this single stitch that lends an interesting and characteristic dimension to this needlework. While the stitch itself is uncomplicated, the quality of the phulkari depends upon the size of the stitch. The smaller the stitch, the finer the embroidery. The threads used were of a silk yarn called pat. In the past, the silk threads were brought in from different parts of India, like Kashmir and Bengal. The cloth primarily used and preferred by the women, was the home-spun, locally woven and dyed khadi. It was strong, long-lasting, and cheap and served the purpose of keeping the wearer warm during winters. Another reason was that the embroidery involved the counting of threads while doing the straight darn stitch. The coarse weave made this task easier. First brought to the Punjab state by the migrant population of Jaat, Phulkari is now equally loved across the country. Over time, various techniques and types of Phulkari embroidery have emerged in India, such as Thirma, Darshan Dwar, Chope, Meenakari, and Kaudi Bagh, among others.

10) Zardozi

From the medieval times the art of Zardozi has flourished, reaching its zenith under the patronage of Emperor Akbar. This gorgeous embroidery reveals artistic use of laid stitch with golden thread. It can be seen in wall hangings, chain stitch on saris, caps and other articles with heavy embroidery. As the embroidery is densely performed, designs done are extremely intricate. The gold wire known as zari is the thread used for zardozi embroidery. The making of zari thread is a very tedious job involving winding, twisting, wire drawing and gold plating of thread. The embroidery of zari zardozi is performed in a very interesting manner. Gold wire is carefully revolved around a silver bar tapered at one end. Then they are heated in furnace till gold and silver alloy is formed. The gilt wire, when drawn through a series of holes made on steel plates, comes out glittering as gold. The gold-coated silver wire is then flattened and twisted around silk thread to obtain zari. Zardozi has remained as an appliqué method of embroidery. With one hand the craftsman holds a retaining thread below the fabric. In the other he holds a hook or a needle with which he picks up the appliqué materials. Then he passes the needle or hook through the fabric. After hours of painstaking labor, the result is an exquisite gold-veined work of art. The intricate gold designs are made from silk, velvet, and even fabrics famous in the state of Uttar Pradesh. However, today, artisans use a combination of copper wire, with a gold or silver polish, and a silk thread. This embroidery work is mainly a specialty of Lucknow, Bhopal, Hyderabad, Delhi, Agra, Kashmir, Mumbai, Ajmer, and Chennai. The art of zardozi was revived along with many traditional methods of embroidery in the middle of this century. Zari work was mainly done in Madras and zardozi in Hyderabad until a few decades ago. Today, Uttar Pradesh is home to this finest work of gold and silver embroidery. This craft has caught on to a larger region of Bareilly such as Allampur, Faridpur, Biharkala, Nawabganj and Chandpur.

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